Upon arrival to Aizu we sweated our way to Aizu University for some crash courses in Japanese. It was difficult but satisfying to feel the rusty wheels of my brain beginning to turn again. I realized I need to start reading books again or I’m going to slowly get dumber (…more dumb haha…).
Following our long day of lessons came the climactic part, the reason we were all here – time to meet our host-families. We were each given a handout about whom we were living with and what we would do over the weekend. Other JETs had kids relatively close to their age; they would cook traditional Japanese food; they were going to learn to unicycle; they would carry a float in the local festival! I had a grandmother, mother, husband, daughter, son-in-law, and a grandchild (the definition of a Japanese nuclear family). My description just said, “We are a warm family centered around our granddaughter”. I was slightly disappointed. I met a small quiet woman outside of the classroom. She introduced herself as Ishikawa-san and mentioned that no one in her family spoke English. Even then, I had no idea what I was getting myself into.
We pulled out of the parking lot and attempted to communicate as we drove out of Aizu Wakamatsu. As we continued to drive and the buildings began to be replaced by rice paddies I wondered “where was this woman taking me?!” I find it ironic that I left the country for the city and ended up right back in rural Japan.
They had a beautiful garden surrounded by bonsai trees, a seemly peaceful place. But as soon as we entered the house a vibrant little girl, bouncing with energy, barreled her way towards me screaming, “AHN-CHAN! AHN-CHAN!” Immediately I was dragged into the living room to play games. The grandmother gave a brief konnitiwa before rapidly talking to her daughter in a flurry of Japanese. Right away I could tell that something was wrong. Suddenly I went from being the guest to babysitter as the women left the house, their explanation? Someone had died.
So for the next half an hour I played with the little girl, who’s name I did not know, who incessantly talked to me in Japanese, and tried not to look worried. She showed me the house, she showed me the yard, she showed me her pink bike with streamers, and lastly, she showed me her room – which is where her mother found us. Except it wasn’t her room, it was her mother’s, and oh crap, we were going through her clothes. Needless to say, not a great introduction.
But a few Yebisu (a type of Japanese malt beer) later, we were buddies! She even told me that she took nenkyu (paid holiday) to be home to see me. Dinner was a feast! Didn’t even hesitate to grab a couple slices of the dark red mystery meat. Only once I began chewing did I notice the rest of the family staring at me quizzically…
“Oshii desu ka?” (Is it tasty?)
“Oshii desu nee.” (Why yes! Yes, it is.)
“Sakura no sashimi desu”
“Mmm, nan desu ka?” (Oh, what is it?)
“Raw horse meat.”
Sorry Jane! It was pretty darn good, even if my stomach did a somersault when they told me. Much more appetizing than the “live sashimi” one of the other JETs got to experience (you eat it off the fish whiles its still breathing). The first night was a blast. Check out the video. We also watched the new Alice in Wonderland movie…in Japanese. Mostly we just hung out and talked (hand-gestured).
The next day began with fish for breakfast; followed by more Japanese classes, and then back with my host family. That night we went out for conveyor belt style sushi, where I tried ikura (salmon roe), squid, and nattō. Now, if you were like me, you’ve probably never heard of “nattō”. But if you come to Japan you will definitely be asked if you can eat it.
Nattō is often considered an acquired taste. The first thing noticed by the uninitiated after opening a pack of nattō is its distinctive smell, somewhat like pungent cheese. When you mix it with soy sauce (sometimes mustard and green onions), it morphs into a gooey, stringy mess. Its like trying to eat spider webs. Even if the smell is revolting, the Japanese claim nattō is good for your health; it reduces blood clotting and cholesterol, prevents Alzheimer’s, osteoporosis, obesity, and cancer, is good for the skin, and reduces the effects of aging. <-- That’s why old Japanese women look like they are 20 years younger!
Despite all its great qualities, the idea of eating fermented soybeans was a little iffy to me. I was pretty positive I wasn’t going to like it...but, I didn’t really notice a smell, the taste was nutty and salty, and anything makes plain white rice taste better. So I like nattō (to which my students yell in disbelief when I tell them).
That night I taught Haruna how to write her name with a sparkler. We ate watermelon (which costs a fortune here. Average price of $20-30 each) and homemade pudding with sprinkles. She screamed with glee when we shot mortars off into the sky.
Japan is big on “hanabi” (fireworks). Every festival has them. The fireworks at the Hirono Summer Festival were huge! They make shapes! Not just circles, but butterflies and famous anime characters, like Doraemon. Also, in Japan, private individuals and companies buy the fireworks to promote special occasions, such as a granddaughter being accepted into college.
The next morning we spent quality time with our host families. Mine took me to the Isasumi Shrine in Aizu Misato machi. Here I learned proper shrine etiquette. Before praying at a shrine you must cleanse yourself. There should be some type of moving water – normally a fountain. Wash your left hand, your right hand, drink, and pour the water down the handle. Then you make an offering (my first temple was incense, this shrine was money). You shake the bell or hit the gong (“kami” or Shinto gods are very lackadaisical. You must make noise so they will pay attention and hear your prayer), clap twice, pray, and clap once.
You can pray for whatever you like. There are special areas to make offerings for children or you can write down your wish on a piece of wood. It’s common for the Japanese to come to a shrine or temple when they want to do well on a test or get a promotion at work.
Next to the shrine was a beautiful park. This was my favorite part. The park was home to a family of swans and a pond full of monster koi fish! Biggest koi I’ve ever seen! Both the swans and the koi tried to eat me. I took lots of pictures so you would believe me.
At the end of the weekend I was disappointed to leave. I had a lot of fun in Aizu with my “warm family that was centered around their granddaughter”. They even insisted that I visit them again soon.
When I got back to Hirono and started to unpack, I found a small white teddy bear amongst my things. Haruna knew I was lonely and had left me a friend. We still keep in touch and I hope to see them again in September when I go back for the Aizu Autumn Festivals.
