The past couple days with my host family have been lovely! I arrived at Aizu Wakamatsu station Tuesday afternoon and was greeted by a crying Keiko. She was so surprised to hear that I was back in Japan and happy to see me. Haruna was a little shy...for about 10 minutes. Such a genki little girl! Unfortunately I had to come during the week so Haruna had to go to elementary school (which afterwards I was grateful for since she would have wiped me out!).
Our first full day we went to tsurugajo, or Aizu castle, in central Aizu Wakamatsu. The castle is beautiful in the spring surrounded by green grass and bright flowers, a contrast to it's bleached white walls. Today the kindergarteners were having picnics on the front castle lawn. We had a friendly Japanese tour guide who was very knowledgable about the history of Aizu castle. We probably spent 30 minutes listening to him explain the construction of the rock walls before we even entered the castle. Of course he only spoke Japanese so my understanding was limited. I took pictures from the top where you can see all of Aizu. It looks like a plate. Flat rice paddies filled with water reflecting the sun in the center and magestic forest-covered mountains encircling the valley. It's probably one of my favorite places in Japan. We also walked through a tea garden and drank matcha with potato manju sweets. Here I saw the biggest bee in my entire life!! It was bigger than my thumb! The Japanese call it the kumahati or "bear bee". It's dangerous and deserving of it's name.
Later that evening we had a BBQ at the Ishikawa house. Last time Kirby and I were in Aizu we had a similar BBQ by the river and the same guests came this time as well. They even all asked about Kirby and kept repeating that he is a "good guy". Whether the meaning of the phrase is the same in Japanese as it is in English, I don't know. I took it as a compliment. Again, I was the kids entertainer and they kept me busy until dark when we could light the hanabi, fireworks! It was nice to know that they hadn't forgotten us. They even asked if I would come back next year to visit.
The next day, Keiko and her father took my high into the mountains to Ouchijuku, an old village with traditional-style Japanese home. The drive to get there was gorgeous by itself but the village was quaint. All the roofs are made with straw and little obaa-chans sit outside and shout their wares. We wandered the town, admiring the scenery, and ate lunch. We had negisoba and ankomochi. With the soba, instead of using chopsticks, you eat the noodles with a negi or long onion (kind of like a giant chive). It was quite an experience. Afterwards we continued into the mountains to the river where an old wooden bridge spans across it. It was a little unnerving to walk across because the bridge moved but the view was stunning! It reminded me of the Willamette River in Oregon (but cleaner). There were small stores along the bank selling roasted chestnuts and ice cream, even liquor made from those giant bees!
Friday, May 20, 2011
Wednesday, May 18, 2011
Back in the Land of Hello Kitty
It seemed surreal as I disembarked at Narita Airport. Nothing looked different. I had done this before. The buses were on time, the trains were running, everyone was polite and smiling. It was as if, here in Ibaraki, the earthquake had never happened.
The next morning the sun's rays highlighted the differences. Stairs were barricaded because they were unstable, sidewalks were still shifted and cracked, debris and sand were everywhere, and Hirono still had no power or water. It has been two months since the quake and the coast barely looks like anything has been done. Driving down the highway along the ocean you can see all the trees are bent over from the weight of the tsunami's water. A lone car is almost hidden, crushed amonst the forest. We stopped in Yotsukura to take pictures of the wreckage. There was broken glass, twisted metal, and garbage everywhere. The supermarket with giant holes through the walls where the tsunami pushed through. Roofs with no walls to support them surrounded by childrens' toys. Soaked futons left in empty shells of homes. It was heart breaking.
But there were volunteers forming lines to clear the rubble and construction workers using machinery to move the debris into organized piles to be sorted. Hirono hardly looked any different on my side of town. Even more amazing was that there are still people working there. Maybe less than 200 of the 5000 people that used to live in Hirono. It is easy to feel safe there. I know the town, my apartment looks the same, it's spring and the flowers are in bloom. But the Japanese are afraid. When I get out of the car with only a t-shirt and shorts they balk. No mask?! No long sleeves and pants?! They quickly ushered me indoors.
I was surprised how little time it took to pack up my belongings. I thought it would take days! I had lived here for 7 months and felt like it would take ages to pack all those experiences. But instead I finished in a day and still didn't feel like leaving. I was leaving my home. And to return to what? A cheap hotel in Iwaki where it is supposedly safe? I'd rather have stayed in Hirono if they would have let me.
The next morning the sun's rays highlighted the differences. Stairs were barricaded because they were unstable, sidewalks were still shifted and cracked, debris and sand were everywhere, and Hirono still had no power or water. It has been two months since the quake and the coast barely looks like anything has been done. Driving down the highway along the ocean you can see all the trees are bent over from the weight of the tsunami's water. A lone car is almost hidden, crushed amonst the forest. We stopped in Yotsukura to take pictures of the wreckage. There was broken glass, twisted metal, and garbage everywhere. The supermarket with giant holes through the walls where the tsunami pushed through. Roofs with no walls to support them surrounded by childrens' toys. Soaked futons left in empty shells of homes. It was heart breaking.
But there were volunteers forming lines to clear the rubble and construction workers using machinery to move the debris into organized piles to be sorted. Hirono hardly looked any different on my side of town. Even more amazing was that there are still people working there. Maybe less than 200 of the 5000 people that used to live in Hirono. It is easy to feel safe there. I know the town, my apartment looks the same, it's spring and the flowers are in bloom. But the Japanese are afraid. When I get out of the car with only a t-shirt and shorts they balk. No mask?! No long sleeves and pants?! They quickly ushered me indoors.
I was surprised how little time it took to pack up my belongings. I thought it would take days! I had lived here for 7 months and felt like it would take ages to pack all those experiences. But instead I finished in a day and still didn't feel like leaving. I was leaving my home. And to return to what? A cheap hotel in Iwaki where it is supposedly safe? I'd rather have stayed in Hirono if they would have let me.
Thursday, May 5, 2011
3.16.11
So nice to be able to shower and wash my clothes! Although that means I have nothing to wear for a couple days. It dropped 10 degrees from Iwaki and started snowing!! My parents are trying to get me to come home. I understand that they are worried but I'm not entirely sure if their fears are justified. It seems to me that the American media is sharing much different news than the Japanese: radiation scares, people sick, nuclear core meltdowns, etc. It's like they want people to panic. But maybe that's why the Japanese government isn't telling us, to prevent a panic. But if it was super serious you'd assume the government would expand the nuclear evacuation zone around Daiichi. Bob says that Daini in Tomioka is cooling down or somewhat stable. I just can't stand all this conflicting news!! But Daddy said English teachers were leaving Iwaki and Candi (who is now in Osaka) confirmed that they are. I don't know what I should do. I would like to see everyone back home but not if it's going to cost a fortune! We'll see what comes of it. If they book me a flight for later in the week, who even knows where I'll be. I have no idea how long this nuclear mess will take to clean up or when I'll be required back at school. It would suck to get all the way home and then summoned right back. I hate waiting.
Flight booked for Friday at 3:40pm with a layover in Seattle.
On a more solemn note, the death count and missing people estimate has risen to 16,000 people and it's expected to actually be around 20,000 people. Horrible. I don't feel like it's real because I'm not there and I don't understand enough Japanese to comprehend their heart wrenching stories of experiencing the earthquake and tsunami. It seems cruel to ask Bob to translate the stories while they are so shocking and raw. However, there have also been good stories. A 62 year old man was found 3 days after the tsunami 15km from shore floating on the roof of his house. A 70 year old woman was trapped for 92 hours and survived. It's these little victories that make it almost seem better. But then the images on the news just remind you that people's lives are ruined. A whole town is completely wiped out, like it never existed. Even other JETs have been reporting that some of their students are missing, or worse, confirmed dead. I remembered that some of my students live closer to the ocean in Hirono and I pray that they are alright.
Flight booked for Friday at 3:40pm with a layover in Seattle.
On a more solemn note, the death count and missing people estimate has risen to 16,000 people and it's expected to actually be around 20,000 people. Horrible. I don't feel like it's real because I'm not there and I don't understand enough Japanese to comprehend their heart wrenching stories of experiencing the earthquake and tsunami. It seems cruel to ask Bob to translate the stories while they are so shocking and raw. However, there have also been good stories. A 62 year old man was found 3 days after the tsunami 15km from shore floating on the roof of his house. A 70 year old woman was trapped for 92 hours and survived. It's these little victories that make it almost seem better. But then the images on the news just remind you that people's lives are ruined. A whole town is completely wiped out, like it never existed. Even other JETs have been reporting that some of their students are missing, or worse, confirmed dead. I remembered that some of my students live closer to the ocean in Hirono and I pray that they are alright.
3.15.11
We moved to Ai's new apartment in Nasu town in Tochigi prefecture. It's about 100km inland from Iwaki. We have power and water but no internet which is slowly killing me.
3.14.11
Another 6am morning. Why do the Japanese insist at getting up at the crack of dawn!? And not only getting up early but talking loudly and forcing everyone else currently sleeping to wake up with them. It's not like we have anything to do. We are just going to sit here all day again and wait for news on the nuclear power plant. The trains are up and running in Tokyo but Tepco announced that starting today they will begin rolling blackouts in the Tokyo area. We shouldn't be affected. However, several JETs have decided to fly south to Osaka. I'm not sure why since nothing has changed and there isn't any increased danger from Okuma's daiichi plant.
Another breakfast of onigiri, miso soup, and bread...yummy.
Another breakfast of onigiri, miso soup, and bread...yummy.
3.13.11
The explosion didn't severely damage the nuclear reactors. So most likely we will be able to go back to Hirono tomorrow.
9:25am 3.13.11
Just got back from getting food and water in Iwaki. We waiting in line for about an hour for water and filled up as many plastic bags as we could carry. Coolers, garbage cans, etc. Luckily we got there early. By the time we finished the line was around the block and down the street. The wait would be at least another 2 hours. It was worrying to see little Obaa-chans (grandmothers) filling up giant buckets and trying to carry them on their bikes without splashing water over the edge. I hope they aren't by themselves.
Now building 3 of the Okuma reactor is having issues, so back to waiting. They are officially asking Hirono residents to evacuate. One good thing is that my cell phone began working this morning. I can't call and service is spotty but I received 30 messages this morning. Mostly from a nervous Kirby, but also my Japanese friends and JETs. I talked to Nas last night and she said the Iwaki JETs have gathered at Clarence's house. I'm glad they're safe and staying together. I think it's the smartest to stay with Bob & Fujie because I know they have my best interests at heart. Also because they speak Japanese so they can tell me what's happening on the news. So glad I went with them instead of going to the komikan (community center) or junior high school. I could be freezing in a gym somewhere and I don't know what would have happened when Hirono was ordered to evacuate. It's not like I have a car or the trains were running. I'd probably be glowing in the dark - just kidding! Instead I'm under a warm kotatsu (heated table), glued to the television watching people's home videos they've sent into NHK. It's horrible! There is a town of 17,000 people up north and 10,000 people are missing!
We are still having earthquakes. Last night we had a big one and this morning, while waiting for water, another one. It was amazing hearing everyone's earthquake alarms go off at the same time. I wish I'd had my camera with me so I could have documented it. I feel like I'm missing so much and its exhausting/daunting to write about the casualties. Information overload.
11:38am
Fukushima-ken 206 dead, 1167 missing. Total death count estimated at 2,800.
Talked to Kirby and Mom & Dad on Skype. Both seem to be in better spirits. We are prepared to leave if another earthquake hits. The news said that within 3 days there is a 70% chance that we will have another big earthquake. After 3 days the chance drops to 50%. All 3 reactors are failing in Okuma and American nuclear experts have been dispatched. We will be staying in Iwaki for the next couple days until we know the status of the cooling process. They added salt water today. Jane told me that the salt would cool down the nuclear substance but it would also ruin the reactors and they wouldn't be able to be used again. I'm not an expert about this but I always believe Jane. She's been having anxiety attacks while watching CNN all day.
I've already taken a nap and I've just been laying around all day but I'm so tired. Mentally exhausted. I just want to be in a warm bed with Kirby. I know he wants me to come home but I just don't see it happening. Other JETs were told that if they left their cities they would have to take nenkyuu (paid leave) - crazy!
6:14pm
The government has lifted the tsunami warning and people are allowed to search the beach area. Hundreds of bodies have been found (especially from that small town I was talking about earlier) and the death count has risen to an estimate of 10,000 people. I think that officially makes it the worst earthquake in Japan's history. It's the 7th worst earthquake in the world and 5th worst since the 1900's. It's insane to think I'm in the middle of this whole mess.
9:25am 3.13.11
Just got back from getting food and water in Iwaki. We waiting in line for about an hour for water and filled up as many plastic bags as we could carry. Coolers, garbage cans, etc. Luckily we got there early. By the time we finished the line was around the block and down the street. The wait would be at least another 2 hours. It was worrying to see little Obaa-chans (grandmothers) filling up giant buckets and trying to carry them on their bikes without splashing water over the edge. I hope they aren't by themselves.
Now building 3 of the Okuma reactor is having issues, so back to waiting. They are officially asking Hirono residents to evacuate. One good thing is that my cell phone began working this morning. I can't call and service is spotty but I received 30 messages this morning. Mostly from a nervous Kirby, but also my Japanese friends and JETs. I talked to Nas last night and she said the Iwaki JETs have gathered at Clarence's house. I'm glad they're safe and staying together. I think it's the smartest to stay with Bob & Fujie because I know they have my best interests at heart. Also because they speak Japanese so they can tell me what's happening on the news. So glad I went with them instead of going to the komikan (community center) or junior high school. I could be freezing in a gym somewhere and I don't know what would have happened when Hirono was ordered to evacuate. It's not like I have a car or the trains were running. I'd probably be glowing in the dark - just kidding! Instead I'm under a warm kotatsu (heated table), glued to the television watching people's home videos they've sent into NHK. It's horrible! There is a town of 17,000 people up north and 10,000 people are missing!
We are still having earthquakes. Last night we had a big one and this morning, while waiting for water, another one. It was amazing hearing everyone's earthquake alarms go off at the same time. I wish I'd had my camera with me so I could have documented it. I feel like I'm missing so much and its exhausting/daunting to write about the casualties. Information overload.
11:38am
Fukushima-ken 206 dead, 1167 missing. Total death count estimated at 2,800.
Talked to Kirby and Mom & Dad on Skype. Both seem to be in better spirits. We are prepared to leave if another earthquake hits. The news said that within 3 days there is a 70% chance that we will have another big earthquake. After 3 days the chance drops to 50%. All 3 reactors are failing in Okuma and American nuclear experts have been dispatched. We will be staying in Iwaki for the next couple days until we know the status of the cooling process. They added salt water today. Jane told me that the salt would cool down the nuclear substance but it would also ruin the reactors and they wouldn't be able to be used again. I'm not an expert about this but I always believe Jane. She's been having anxiety attacks while watching CNN all day.
I've already taken a nap and I've just been laying around all day but I'm so tired. Mentally exhausted. I just want to be in a warm bed with Kirby. I know he wants me to come home but I just don't see it happening. Other JETs were told that if they left their cities they would have to take nenkyuu (paid leave) - crazy!
6:14pm
The government has lifted the tsunami warning and people are allowed to search the beach area. Hundreds of bodies have been found (especially from that small town I was talking about earlier) and the death count has risen to an estimate of 10,000 people. I think that officially makes it the worst earthquake in Japan's history. It's the 7th worst earthquake in the world and 5th worst since the 1900's. It's insane to think I'm in the middle of this whole mess.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
3.12.2011
Still don't have any power or cell phone service. Thank God that Bob's house has news...but no heat, I'm freezing! We're too worried to start the wood stove in case there is another earthquake. Last night was rough. I was woken up at least three times just by giant earthquakes, not including the warning bulletins from the town at all hours of the night. Feeling sick - awesome. Wondering about my house, or at least the food in my fridge. I need to find out if my landline works and how to make international calls. Going to get out of bed and check the news. Yesterday there were 200-300 bodies found in Sendai and 28 middle schoolers missing. I hope it's better today...
Been sitting on the couch, glued to my laptop and the TV. I'm so exhausted from hearing bad news and staying up all night from the earthquakes and alarms. The death toll keeps rising. Currently there are about 1400 people missing or dead. Sendai is still underwater. 50 kids are stranded on a boat in the ocean and both nuclear power plants (Tomioka and Okuma) are beginning to fail. Tomioka has already been evacuated, in Okuma it is recommended. People in northern Hirono should stay inside their houses or leave.
Bob, Fujie, and I took a ride around town to see the damage. You can't see too much up by my house. Just cracked streets, buildings, and no power still. But when you get downtown you start to notice the fallen roofs, extra debris, and when you get to the river you can see how high it rose, and what it took out with it. Bob guesstimated that the tsunami took out about 20 houses. The land is just a muddy flat field of wreckage. You can see the roofs (sp? I'm so tired I can't spell. Jane says that it's my adrenaline levels finally dropping after keeping me awake in "fight or flight" mode. I could pass out anywhere) floating in the rice paddies with nothing left for walls. The trip from Tokyo to Sendai is taking over 15 hours by car instead of less than 5 like normal. The water maybe isn't supposed to come back for two weeks and the aftershocks are still happening. They've definitely diminished though - however, the news said it's possible for us to have another big earthquake within in the week.
Now we have to worry about the power plants failing. We have emergency packs ready if we need to leave but I have no idea where we'd go, Iwaki? The facility in Tomioka is supposedly 1000% over capacity and is beginning to leak. But all of my information is second-hand because I can't understand the news. That's probably the most frustrating part. Just waiting...
The death count in Iwaki was 23 this morning, now it's 41. There is a panic for food and water. Lines are down the street for convenience stores or sold out. Gas prices have skyrocketed and there's a shortage on gas and water. We have about 4 large bottles of drinking water now. Nuclear reactor building just exploded in Okuma. It's 5:45pm but it happened a little earlier. We don't know what's going to happen because of this but it seems increasingly likely that we will be evacuating to Iwaki
8:04pm in Iwaki at Bob's oldest son's apartment with his wife. Just finished dinner (Rice again. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner) and now sitting under the kotatsu watching the news. The Iwaki JETs are safe and know I'm here. We have no internet again but Bob has a long distance number that I can use to call my parents in the morning or even later tonight if I can stay awake. Bob keeps telling me it's horrible but everything that has happened is quite an experience! Haha, no kidding. I just got told I have to go to the bathroom in an unlit park or a bag, ewwww...quite an experience. I think I've had all the experience I need. I've lived through an 8.8 earthquake, 33 ft tsunami, and now nuclear power leakage! I really don't need anymore experience for today thank you. However I did get educated on tsunamis vs. waves. A wave's crest is the highest point, a wave flows in and out. Tsunamis are caused by earthquakes and the level of the ocean raises and doesn't go out.
Been sitting on the couch, glued to my laptop and the TV. I'm so exhausted from hearing bad news and staying up all night from the earthquakes and alarms. The death toll keeps rising. Currently there are about 1400 people missing or dead. Sendai is still underwater. 50 kids are stranded on a boat in the ocean and both nuclear power plants (Tomioka and Okuma) are beginning to fail. Tomioka has already been evacuated, in Okuma it is recommended. People in northern Hirono should stay inside their houses or leave.
Bob, Fujie, and I took a ride around town to see the damage. You can't see too much up by my house. Just cracked streets, buildings, and no power still. But when you get downtown you start to notice the fallen roofs, extra debris, and when you get to the river you can see how high it rose, and what it took out with it. Bob guesstimated that the tsunami took out about 20 houses. The land is just a muddy flat field of wreckage. You can see the roofs (sp? I'm so tired I can't spell. Jane says that it's my adrenaline levels finally dropping after keeping me awake in "fight or flight" mode. I could pass out anywhere) floating in the rice paddies with nothing left for walls. The trip from Tokyo to Sendai is taking over 15 hours by car instead of less than 5 like normal. The water maybe isn't supposed to come back for two weeks and the aftershocks are still happening. They've definitely diminished though - however, the news said it's possible for us to have another big earthquake within in the week.
Now we have to worry about the power plants failing. We have emergency packs ready if we need to leave but I have no idea where we'd go, Iwaki? The facility in Tomioka is supposedly 1000% over capacity and is beginning to leak. But all of my information is second-hand because I can't understand the news. That's probably the most frustrating part. Just waiting...
The death count in Iwaki was 23 this morning, now it's 41. There is a panic for food and water. Lines are down the street for convenience stores or sold out. Gas prices have skyrocketed and there's a shortage on gas and water. We have about 4 large bottles of drinking water now. Nuclear reactor building just exploded in Okuma. It's 5:45pm but it happened a little earlier. We don't know what's going to happen because of this but it seems increasingly likely that we will be evacuating to Iwaki
8:04pm in Iwaki at Bob's oldest son's apartment with his wife. Just finished dinner (Rice again. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner) and now sitting under the kotatsu watching the news. The Iwaki JETs are safe and know I'm here. We have no internet again but Bob has a long distance number that I can use to call my parents in the morning or even later tonight if I can stay awake. Bob keeps telling me it's horrible but everything that has happened is quite an experience! Haha, no kidding. I just got told I have to go to the bathroom in an unlit park or a bag, ewwww...quite an experience. I think I've had all the experience I need. I've lived through an 8.8 earthquake, 33 ft tsunami, and now nuclear power leakage! I really don't need anymore experience for today thank you. However I did get educated on tsunamis vs. waves. A wave's crest is the highest point, a wave flows in and out. Tsunamis are caused by earthquakes and the level of the ocean raises and doesn't go out.
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